I SIMPLY WANTED TO SEE A DIFFERENT LIFE, A DIFFERENT ME
LILIYA NAGRIMOVA
LILIYA NAGRIMOVA
I SIMPLY WANTED TO SEE A DIFFERENT LIFE, A DIFFERENT ME

— My name is Liliya, and I'm 25 years old. I spent a year in the USA on a cruise ship and another year in the United Arab Emirates. In Dubai they nicknamed me Leyla. Because of my fair skin and freckles, people often assumed I was British. But I'm just a girl from Russia, a Tatar in a hijab living in Kazan.

Many of the new friends I made didn't know the Republic of Tatarstan even exists. Overall, people were surprised how a girl from Russia could be a Muslim. Many had a dissonance about this, but I managed to broaden their horizons.
WHEN FOREIGNERS HEAR 'TATARSTAN', THEY ALWAYS DOUBLE CHECK "YOU MEAN KAZAKHSTAN?"
NO, TATARSTAN

(Laughs).
My favourite subjects at school were Geography and English. At home, I would dive into books about travel, the conquest of Antarctica, the Wild West. I would daydream about traveling the world - that was my passion, my dream! So that's why I enrolled to study tourism management at Saint Petersburg State University.
In the 4th year of my Bachelor's degree, I took academic leave, and, well, I had an entire year, to basically dedicate to myself, and myself alone.

I accidentally came across some VKontakte social network groups called things like 'Work on a Cruise Ship', 'Work in the USA'.

I followed them and started keeping tabs on them, engaged with them, watched interviews; my trust in them took time to form. I'm not the sort of person who would have jumped at an opportunity like this after a week - I need time to make decisions.

When I got my leave from University, I realized that this was my chance - it was time.

— How did your family react?

— They were very happy. My parents supported my decision. There was an initial investment in order to be able to go and work in the USA. I paid the job agency, bought a plane ticket to the USA as well as to Poland for the interview. I paid all of this back, but I had to invest about 60-80 thousand rubles. I'm really grateful for my parents for supporting me. Both morally and financially during the first stage.
IT TAKES A GREAT DEAL OF TRUST TO BE ABLE TO LET YOUR TWENTY YEAR OLD DAUGHTER GO TO A FOREIGN COUNTRY ALONE. I'M GRATEFUL TO MY FATHER BECAUSE HE ALWAYS RAISED ME IN THE SPIRIT OF: BE INDEPENDENT, NEVER FEAR.
The cruise ship had 2,000 passengers and about 1,000 staff. Most of them were from India and the Philippines, a few Americans, Brits and South Africans. Lots of Ukrainians, but only a handful of Russians. To get a job on the cruise, you need to have good English.

— What did you do on the cruise ship?

— At first I worked as an Assistant Waiter. Honestly, it's not an easy job, it's tough physically, emotionally draining too. Then I got promoted and became an Assistant Hostess to the youngest hostess at the restaurant. And that was another level, management level, a different schedule, different work. It was much more interesting.

A cruise ship is basically a small town on the water. A huge construction with a fully developed infrastructure: restaurants, pools, spas, a kindergarten. Bigger ships have gardens, fountains, rock climbing walls, water parks.

My first contract was from Florida. We left the port in Miami and headed to the Caribbean, Jamaica, sailed through the Bahamas and Cayman islands, and on to Mexico. There are so many small countries there that many don't even know about!

The cruise would span 3-5 days. The ship leaves its port, docks into some other ports for a few days, makes a loop and returns back to Miami.

After half a year I returned to St Petersburg, finished my degree and left again. The second contract was for 4 months, this time in Los Angeles. We would travel to Alaska, Hawaii and again to Mexico.

The whales migrate to Alaska in the summer, and spend their winters closer to the equator, near Hawaii. To be honest, I get a little sentimental when I remember those days!

We would sail past icebergs. The same icebergs that are currently melting. The seals for example , swim around in the ice floes. It's wildlife at its finest, absolutely unsurpassed! It's simply breathtaking! (Laughs).
My ancestors converted to Islam at the end of the 19th century. They weren't Tatars but because of this, they changed their names and surnames to Tatar ones. Their children started to marry into other Tatar families.
TO ME, BEING A TATAR MEANS SPEAKING TATAR, KNOWING MY CULTURE. IT'S A VERY COMPLEX ISSUE FOR ME. BUT I FEEL TATAR.
I have Tatar and Chuvash roots. My grandad on my dad's side married a Chuvash woman and lived in a Chuvash village. So, the Tatar language in my family never made it to my generation.

As far as I know, Islam was being preached in the villages. So that was their conscious decision, to convert. The same thing happened to me. I chose my religion when I was 20.
— SO DOES THAT MEAN RELIGION RETURNED TO THE FAMILY (THE FAMILY RETURNED TO THE RELIGION) AFTER SKIPPING A FEW GENERATIONS?
— KIND OF, YEAH.

I was already a Muslim on the cruise, so I would fast, and eat halal foods and fish. Food wasn't actually an issue. There was a lot of seafood so I had no need for meat whatsoever.
I ATE LOBSTER, PRAWNS, RED FISH, SO THERE WAS NOTHING TO COMPLAIN ABOUT. BECAUSE I WORKED IN A RESTAURANT, I ALWAYS HAD AMAZING FOOD! (LAUGHS).
When I came back from the cruise ship to Russia, I lived with my parents for a while. I had finished University so there was no reason to return to St Petersburg.

Even before America, I always wanted to live in an Arab country. I considered going to the United Arab Emirates so I decided to try my luck in Dubai.

Dubai is like a smaller version of America (in terms of comfort, civilization, development). They adapt everything to themselves. That includes innovation, planning, safety, and a high quality of life. But at the same time, it's a Muslim country.

On their streets you won't find homeless people, drunks or druggies.

I wanted to spend Ramadan in an Arab country. It's a totally different atmosphere where everyone celebrates that month at a state level, the working days get shortened. Those fasting work for 6 hours a day, and those who don't - work 7. The streets are decorated...

It's very atmospheric. I was really happy to be there at that moment.

I was already a Muslim when I arrived in Dubai but I didn't wear a hijab back then. It's a big responsibility to decide to wear a hijab and it was a decision that took me some time to make. Back there, the circumstances allowed for it so I made that step.
AS SOON AS I WENT TO WORK WITH MY HEAD COVERED, I RECEIVED MUCH MORE RESPECT THAN BEFORE.
It was a very warm and welcoming experience, a positive experience. Yep.

In Dubai I worked as a receptionist in a five-star hotel. The hotel was very beautiful, famous and popular. I had a one year contract there. After that, I returned back to Russia.

Initially, when visiting Kazan to see relatives, I was there as a guest for a few days at a time. My friends and I went on a tour of Bolgar. I really enjoyed it! Even back when I was studying in St Petersburg, I would think: it would be so cool to live in Kazan, I even tried to get transferred to Kazan University. And my brother would also say that living here is a very good idea.

So when I had achieved my goals of travel and living overseas, I realized that I can now move here with a clear conscience.

I rented an apartment. The first was near the 'Gorki' station. The second (where I live now) is near the 'Yashlek' metro station. But if I had to name my favourite spots in Kazan, for me they are:
— Kyrlai Park (I used to go there with my brother, then my nephew, so I have very fond memories associated with that place),
— the Old Tatar Quarter (the cute wooden houses remind me of my childhood, grandma's house),
— Medina Cafe (a very atmospheric place that serves halal food),
— and of course Parizhskoy Kommuny Street (it's the most 'Muslim' street in Kazan). You can go clothes shopping there and see only Muslims. It may well be the most Muslim place in the city.

Compared to Moscow and St Petersburg, Kazan is an ideal place. It's calm and not overrun with people. The underground metro is never full. There's a lot of halal cafes. I love eastern food like manty dumplings, stuff like that, homemade type food. I love cafes like Tubetey, Medina Cafe, I also like Al Qasr, they have really nice Arabic style food.

I really like the Irek Mosque not far from the Kremlin. It's very beautiful - marble, white walls, decorative patterns. You know, there's a saying: "Allah is beautiful, Allah loves beauty". This Mosque is a testament to those words. It inspires me.
I love to go swimming at Goluboye Ozero (Blue Lake). On my first visit there, I was amazed at what beauty exists in Tatarstan, and in Russia in general. Last time I spent almost 8 minutes in the cold water. It's my favourite place in Kazan!
I see Kazan as a cozy and homey town. I can't call it an innovative place (in my understanding), because I've seen the other, different levels of economies and development.

If we were to take the hotel hospitality sector here, it definitely needs work, hands down.

(Answers ahead of the question) ...but I decided not to work in the tourism sector in Kazan. On one hand I want to have more freedom in my day and be in charge of only my own schedule. On the other hand, because I wear a hijab.
THE HIJAB KIND OF LIMITS MY PROFESSIONAL GROWTH IN KAZAN. MAYBE IT'S ALL IN MY HEAD, BUT MAYBE THAT REALLY IS THE CASE.
It's probably because there's a stereotype here about how a Muslim woman must be married and have 10 kids and is forbidden to work. In Kazan, I have plenty of Muslim friends who are girls who do some really interesting things: some are in fashion, some practice psychology, one is a doctor. Interesting as in at career level, not as a mum and wife.

At first, I wanted to work in the hospitality sector in Kazan. During the interview I was told "We are a Europeanized hotel, so we are leaning more towards a man who won't have to take maternity leave."

— Isn't that sexist.

— (No comment).

— What about stereotypes about being married? Do you come across those?

— To be honest, yes, I do.

I'm 25. In traditional Muslim circles I'm supposed to be raising kids at my age. Although in the USA and Dubai I'd often get told that I'm still a youngin'.

— How do you feel about feminism?

I believe that feminism in the 20th century was a necessity for having basic rights.
ISLAM TECHNICALLY GIVES WOMEN RIGHTS. IF A WOMAN WANTS TO, SHE IS FREE TO WORK, OWN PROPERTY AND BE IN CHARGE OF HER OWN BANK ACCOUNT.
I remain neutral to it all. I don't identify with the current feminist movement whatsoever. I know that it's popular in European countries, but I just don't identify with it.

— Do you drive?

— I got my driver's license three days ago. I never got it before because I never had the need for it. I didn't need to rent a car in the USA, but I did realize the acute need for it in Dubai. It's difficult without a car there.

For example, the public transport infrastructure is very developed in Kazan. I can take the number 6 bus from my place to get to you. But it's much harder over there, I'd have to order a taxi, which is really expensive. It's much easier to get around Dubai in a car. So I had limited mobility there.

I think a driver's license will be useful here too.
I REMEMBER HOW I WENT INTO A MUSLIM SHOP WITH MY FRIEND WHO WASN'T A MUSLIM AND I CAREFULLY WATCHED OVER HER TO ENSURE THAT THE STAFF DIDN'T MAKE HER FEEL UNWELCOME WITH THE WAY THEY LOOKED AT HER, BECAUSE SOMETHING LIKE THAT CAN PUT PEOPLE OFF RELIGION.
If a person doesn't allow others to integrate into their culture or their religion, I believe that's narrow minded.

I worked in hospo so I look at it not only from a religious point of view, but a professional one too. I have a few notes...and suggestions about customer service in many Muslim stores in Kazan.

There shouldn't be any limitations around who can come into a store. On the contrary, it pays to be friendly to those who don't wear a hijab - this shows the true spirit of religion, when a person is open to the world. It's important to be diplomatic with your customers, friendly to people. It's a skill that needs work here.
WHEN I CAME BACK FROM THE USA, EVERYONE WOULD KEEP ASKING WHY I DIDN'T STAY THERE TO LIVE. I SIMPLY WANTED TO SEE A DIFFERENT LIFE, A DIFFERENT ME.
To adapt something from other countries, nations, a different way of life.

It's important to find a place, where you want to stay, set your roots, where you will keep returning back to. I chose Kazan for myself.

It's awesome to have the opportunity to travel and visit the world - New York today, Hong Kong tomorrow. The world is big, but Kazan is home.

INTERVIEW — RADMA KHAKOVA
PHOTOS — KYRILL MIKHAYLOV
DIRECTOR — ILSHAT RAKHIMBAE (ADEM MEDIA)
CAMERAMAN — RUSLAN FAKHRETDINOV (ADEM MEDIA)